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Liverpool vs Chelsea: UEFA Super Cup: Free Football Betting Tips 🇪🇺⚽️

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Asian Handicap Betting Explained | Free Super Tips Guide

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Asian Handicap Betting Explained | Free Super Tips Guide

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Friends of Mineral Town - Tips and Important Info

After getting some feedback on my previous thread I decided to make a list of info, advice, and tips on the FoMT remake. Please feel free to comment with anything else you think should be added!
Obligatory shout-out to Fogu and the Ranch Story Wiki, both of which have been a great source of help.

Important Info

This section contains advice to make sure you don't miss out on something important, or severely delay your progress.
The Horse: In order to obtain the horse, you must introduce yourself to Mugi, the animal shopkeeper, in the Spring. If you don't talk to him by Spring 29 you will never receive the horse. After speaking with Mugi he'll give you a foal (baby horse) to raise. You must get the horse to 4 hearts by 90 days after receiving it. Mugi will come to collect in the Winter, and will take the horse away if it does not have a high enough affection.
Raising the horse's affection isn't too hard, talking, brushing, and whistling increases affection. If you do 2 of these a day you should reach 4 hearts. If Mugi ends up taking the horse, you will get it back after a year.
Cliff: (This section has been edited). By the end of Year 1, Cliff will leave Mineral Town if you don't meet the conditions for him to stay. On Fall 14, you'll need Duke to come by your farm and offer you a day's work at the winery. He'll tell you to invite someone, and you'll need to invite Cliff to make sure he stays in town. The next day you'll head over to the winery between 10 - 3 and either Accept or Refuse the job (does not matter for keeping Cliff). However Fogu and Ranch Story have conflicting information on how to go about this. There's also conflicting anecdotal evidence on this sub. Fluff_Master_Fanfic made this post and contacted Marvelous regarding the requirements to get Cliff the job. According to them, the only requirement for triggering the vineyard job is to trigger Cliff's first heart event. If you meet this requirement and are having trouble, it is likely a glitch. (Also shout-out to pungkk who tested this and even offered to provide video evidence).
With that said, if Cliff leaves, after 30 days he'll return to town and permanently stay.
Harvest Goddess Offerings: You cannot give more than 1 offering to the HG per day. Certain stuff like Van or the mine elavator take a while to unlock, so I suggest throwing a flower in every day from the start. On the topic of the Harvest Goddess...
Marrying HG/Kappa: Once you give 20 offerings to HG, she'll ask if there's someone you like. If you plan on marrying HG or Kappa, you must choose their name! You'll be locked out of their marriage if you choose someone else.

Making Money

One of the biggest struggles in the early game is making cash. Here are a couple of tips:
Fishing: Even a small fish will sell for 50g. Catch just 10 of these and you're already making a few hundred a day, especially combined with foraged items. In addition, some events (both heart and festivals), will take place at the beach. Time is stopped, and you won't consume stamina, so it's a good opportunity to catch a bunch of fish. It's worth noting that your fishing rod will not level up if you fish during these events.
Mining: You're going to collect a lot more ore than you need. For money making I recommend getting down to floor 10 or lower and collect/sell Mithril, Orichalcum, and Adamantite. See further down for how to explore the mines without using a ton of stamina.
Pineapples: Probably the biggest money making crop. Seeds are 1,000g each, and each 1 star pineapple sells at 500g, making a 3,500g profit. Even just a few seeds can churn out a chunk of cash.
Van's Favorite: Okay, now onto the big stuff. Every once in a while you'll get a letter from HG giving you a bottle called Van's Favorite. You could give it to Van...or you could sell it to Huang for 55-57,000g. The bottle isn't useful to Van until you have $1 mil, so I recommend keeping 1 and selling the rest. There is a video guide on how to get a bunch of these. I have not tried this method, but it's worth checking out if you're interested.
Derby Betting: Each Spring and Fall season will have a Derby race. Save just before entering the town plaza, watch the race, and remember the winning colors. Reload your save, bet everything on the winner, and collect your tickets. The most profitable item is the dress, which you would sell to Huang (see below for how to). Dresses can be purchased after you buy the truth jewel and power berry. If you can't get the dress, or sell to Huang yet, I recommend buying brooches and shipping them. You'll still make a decent profit.
Huang's Apple Game: Raise Huang's friendship to 6 notes, and you can play his apple game. Win 10 times, and get a white flower. You can sell these flowers to Huang for 78k - 86k. Or you can get 10 of those flowers, and offer them to the HG (remember - only 1 day at a time!) jk turns out you can give her all 10 at once. It just won't count toward your offering. She'll give you a Goddess flower back, which can be sold to Huang for $1 million. Most people recommend recording each round on your phone to beat the game. There is also a guide from the original game that still applies to the remake.

General Farm Tips/Info

Animals: The first animal you buy will only have 5 hearts, you'll need to breed that type of animal, gradually increasing the number of hearts until it reaches 10. It's my understanding that once you reach 10 hearts on a specific animal, you can buy any animal of that type, breed it, and the baby will automatically have 10 hearts. Verification on this would be appreciated!
Winter: Absolutely no crops can grow in this season. There's no greenhouse either. Yes there's the seasonal suns, they are just there to sell and look pretty. This is a good season to mine, fish, and increase your friendship with the villagers.
Fodder Grass: You'll start off with a patch of fodder grass on the lower right corner of your field. Both this and any more grass you plant has a chance of spreading each day. Any grass you don't cut down has a 75% chance of coming back after winter.

Noteworthy Villagers to Befriend

Nature Sprites: On the right side of the church, you'll see a pathway that leads to a small hut where the Nature Sprites live. If you befriend them, they'll help with chores on your farm. They all love wheat flour, and personally I find that to be the easiest gift, however for the most part each sprite likes grass of their own color. Some people have reportedly had trouble with Blueberry and Aqua, however I have not tested this. I believe you can improve their skill level by playing minigames with them as well.
Huang: Get him to 4 notes and you'll be able to sell items to him. Get him to 6 and you can play the apple game. Gold is probably the easiest gift to get him.
Duke and Manna: Already mentioned, but get them both to 4 friendship notes to keep Cliff in Mineral Town. According to Marvelous, this is not true. See above for details.
Carter: Get him to 8 notes, and you'll gain access to his backdoor starting in the Fall. You'll need to see the event Carter's Secret, and the door will be left unlocked. This area can be used to forage various items, in particular the rare matsutake mushroom.
Anna: Reach 8 friendship notes and you can attend her cooking classes to learn recipes.
Ellen: If you reach 8 friendship notes with her, and give her yarn during the Winter, she'll knit you a stocking, and Thomas will leave a present on Winter 25. You'll need to give her the yarn between 9 - 11am, on a day that is not Wednesday, and between Winter 1 - 23. Once you give her the yarn, you'll be transported back to your house, and it will be 7 pm, so make sure your schedule is clear!
Gotts: You'll want to be at 4 friendship notes with him by Year 3, otherwise he'll stop doing work until you give him enough gifts to reach 6 friendship notes.

Other Tips

Mining - Save Stamina: In order to conserve stamina while mining, simply save when you enter each floor. Once you find the ladder, reload and go straight for the ladder. It's also worth noting that the ores stay in place once you save, so if you have a good memory you can reload and go straight for the valuable ores. Eventually you'll need to recover stamina, curry udon is the best choice for this. If you don't have the recipe yet, fried rice and moon dumplings are other good options.
Leveling up tools: Time doesn't pass indoors, so if you're having trouble leveling up, spam the tool inside either your house or Dudley's restaurant. To recover stamina either eat some food at the restaurant (the daily special recovers the most), cook, or use the bathroom in your house. Time also stops in the mines, so you could use the tool a bunch of times in there, refill your stamina at the hot spring, and just repeat the process.
Shopping Channel: For players of the original, this no longer exists. You'll receive a letter from Jeff when cooking utensils are available to buy at his shop, and Gotts will sell you the large bed.
Van: He's unlocked after giving 30 gifts to HG. He can be found at the upstairs of the inn every Wednesday, and in the lower-left corner of the town plaza on the 15th of each month. This is where you'll buy a pet and pet treats.
Weather: To manipulate the weather, save before going to bed. Wake up, check the weather TV station. If it's bad weather for the next day, reload your save, go to bed, and try again until you get the desired outcome.
Cooking: You can cook up to 9 of a dish at one time, there should be an indicator on the bottom of the screen with how much you'll prepare. Saves a lot of time when you're stocking up to go mining!
The Elevator: After 100 gifts you'll unlock an elevator to the mine, which will take you to various floors you've reached manually (50, 100, 150, 200, and 225). This won't be announced, but you'll know you've unlocked it if you find the Super Fascinating Book on your bookshelf. You'll need to exit to the surface of the mine in order to trigger the dialogue about the elevator.
Dating: There is no consequence if you give a preserved flower and date all the candidates. In fact there's an achievement for it! You won't lose friend points once you marry a partner.
Hidden Foraging Path: Behind Jennifer's tent there's a pathway blocked by boulders that can be broken with a level 3 (silver) hammer. There's bamboo trees near the start of the path if you're having trouble finding it. Clear the boulders, run to the end of the path, and there's a chance you'll find a matsutake mushroom during the fall.
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Thought Process Behind Building a PC. For Beginners, by Beginners.

Disclaimer: I wrote this out of boredom, and to put every knowledge I gathered this last months somewhere for everyone to see. I do not claim any authority nor will take any responsability for whatever you decide to do with this guide. I guarantee that all I wrote, I wrote in good faith. I would really love to be criticized and corrected. Thank you u/buildapc for your help!

Hello fellow /builder! You are probably here to ask for help about your dream pc build. I know I did. For hours. Weeks, actually. I have put together my system about a month ago. Rather than simply sharing my story and showing off my build (I'm not showing because cable management is b a d, ugh), I'd like to give something back to this wonderful community. So here it is, a guide for beginners, in layman terms, without unnecessary technical information.


In order to even begin to request help for building your pc, first you need to know what your computer is going to be used for! There's 3 orders of information priority:
Primary informations:
If you can't provide these, nobody can really help you, at best they can make educated guesses. These informations relate directly to the parts responsible for your performance: CPU, Graphics Card, RAM, and indirectly to Motherboard.
If you own a monitor, you need to find out its specs either by googling the model name, or in Advanced Display Informations. To find details about your monitor, head to Settings > System > Display and scroll down and click on “Advanced Display Settings”. If you are going to buy a monitor, you should always have resolution and refresh rate in mind when picking one.
Budget and intended purpose are self explanatory!
Secondary informations:
These informations are optional, but might help tailoring your build to your exact needs.
Let's say you like Cities Skylines and are going to play that title 90% of the time. Now whoever is helping you, is going to recommend up to 32 gb ram and a slightly overpowered CPU to handle that. Let's say you want to play e-sports only, you might be able to scale down the project and save something on your budget. It's not an everyday occurrance to find someone who is going to play a couple of titles only, but it's less uncommon than you might think! Knowing this specific piece of information can make a measurable difference.
If your intention is overclocking, then it's a good idea to say so in your build request. Not every piece of hardware can be overclocked, and not every motherboard can support overclocking. Nevertheless, if you need this guide, then I kindly suggest you do not oveclock.
About ambient temperature, it's only really a concern at the high spectrum of the curve, but it might force you to pick a thermal solution.
More on thermal solution later.
Tertiary informations:
These informations are merely cosmetic.
Some people are obsessed by RGB, some are not. If you don't mention your cosmetic preference, nobody is going to care. Function is always over form when building a pc, particularly with a budget in mind.
Most people prefer a brand - I know I do - but most will settle for something else as long as it's better for their needs. If you are a die hard brand loyalist, you should mention that before someone figures out a build for you only to scrap it because you'd rather have a nVidia Graphics Card or Intel instead of AMD CPUs.
It happens mostly when upgrading, but sometimes people want their build to end up in their dream (or old) case. If you are in this position, you should mention that because of space constraints. More on this later.
So, here's an example of a terrible build request:
pls help I need help for a new pc for under 1k, help?
And here's an example of a good build request:
Hello, I own a 1440p/75hz monitor, I want to play AAA titles at ultra and my budget is about 1200€. I prefer AMD, want RGB (unless it's over my budget), and have a mid tower UL7R4 C00L PC case themed red. I also need some advice on water cooling.
Signed: a gentleman and a scholar

Doing your research

Sometimes, you just want to figure out things on your own. Good. Here's what I did, starting with basics.
This is the list of parts directly tied to performance:
This is the list of parts that support your performance:
This is the list of parts that handle your system safety and are indirectly tied to performance
How do you even begin? Let's see first what these parts do.
The Processor... processes. Want to open a Chrome tab? Process that! Discord in background? A core will take care of that! Preparing a frame for your GPU to render with lights, textures, shadows? That's exactly what your CPU is for.
Explaining how and what a CPU does is over the scope of this guide, so here's what you really need to know: core clock, and core count. And that's it for the most part. These two concepts are interrelated. You could have 64 core to work with at a low core clock and it could handle a ludicrous amount of processes, while unable to handle a single process that takes up to 4 cores but requires from each of them a high core clock. Such is the case with videogames, which mostly work off a limited number of cores and will perform better the faster each used core is. More cores ain't going to help, because the game ain't going to use it unless it is programmed to do so!
Manufacturer usually take care of this for the consumers, by splitting their hardware portfolio in processors for servers and for consumers. AMD server CPUs are called Epyc and have a consumer equivalent (read: from the same generation) called Ryzen. Intel has Xeons for servers and their i3/i5/i7 line up for consumers.
Every generation of CPUs has its own fitting socket. You physically can't put a CPU in a socket that was not designed for that CPU. A CPU socket is a part of motherboards.
If you are going to pick a Ryzen CPU, it is a good idea to check what RAM capacity and clock it works best with. You can find benchmarks online for that.
Some CPUs are integrated with Graphics Card. These are referred to as APUs, and I'm not going to talk about them because I'm uninformed.
Tip: when picking a CPU, check console hardware. I'm not joking. Consoles are meant for gaming and are the common denominator of hardware progress for gaming. PS5 and XBox X are going to have 8 core CPUs, of which 2 are reserved for the system, thus 6 cores for videogames to play with. It's a reasonable expectation that the new standard for CPU core count is going to be 6 in the years to come.
Graphics Card
If you're a gamer, you want to pay close attention when picking a good GPU for your build. The GPU market is not as segmented as CPU market is, and you can easily find benchmarks for each of them at any mainstream resolution tier. Thus, picking a GPU is commonly the first step of your build, because it is directly tied to the resolution and refresh rate of your monitor.
You need not to worry too much about the specs of your GPU. Benchmarks are pretty accurate at predicting their performance, but picking an aftermarket card (sometimes referred to as custom cards) can be tricky. Every Graphic Card design is reinterpreted by different manufacturers, offer different software and bios support, different thermal solutions and features.
Here's some of them:
About I/O shield: this is generally a concern for multi monitor setup, but you should always double check that the graphics card you are buying has the correct port for your monitor, be it HDMI, Display Port, DVI or VGA. Adapters exist, but are unreliable.
AMD and Nvidia have their own V-sync function, which must be supported by the monitor in the first place in order to work. AMD has Free Sync, and most monitors have this. Nvidia has G-Sync, and most monitors do not have this. Good news for Nvidia, though. They finally caved in and added support for Free Sync, but your monitor needs to have both Free Sync and Display Port 1.2 (well, most of them do, and you should always double check that).
The motherboard is the lymphatic system of your build. It draws power from the PSU to be carefully administered to your other components. Some people think that cheaping out on Motherboard is a good idea.
To a degree.
As long as your motherboard can handle your CPU power draw, is compatible with your RAM, has enough SATA ports for your storage, has a good number of USB ports and a decent BIOS, it is good to go. Easy right? ...well.
Here's some research you can do on your own:
Motherboard power draw is very hard to investigate, you need to rely on trusted reviewers (such as Buildzoid, Gamer Nexus, Hardware Unboxed) or tier lists on popular forums/sites/reddits.
Note that if you plan to overclock, you must have a good Motherboard.
Tip: the bulk of your work can be done automatically by PCPartPicker system builder. Pick your designated CPU, compatible motherboards will be already filtered. If you pick both CPU and motherboard, RAMs will also be filtered for compatibility.
While PCPartPicker exists, picking a compatible RAM is easy. Picking the right RAM is something else entirely.
First things first: do never, ever, buy a single stick of ram. You want 2 sticks of RAMs, which should be bought in pairs. I can't advice against buying 4 sticks of RAM, but make sure motherboard supports them or do some in depth research because system stability is at stake. Nowadays, 16gb of ram, rated 3200 to 3600 mhz, with a Cas Latency (CL) of 16 is the norm.
Ryzen CPUs are particularly sensitive to RAMs. As a rule of thumb you should get 3000-3200 mhz CL16 rams for Zen+, and 3200-3600 mhz CL16 rams for Zen2. You can get better rams, but there's no guarantee they will be stable if they are terribly overpowered for your Ryzen CPU (a good motherboard and a good overclocker might make anything stable with little compromise nevertheless). Lower latency RAMs usually cost more than higher frequency rams, but will not incur in such issues.
Here's benchmarks for 2 of the most popular CPUs:
Bottleneck is what happens when in a particular task, one of your component (RAM, CPU or GPU) is at the limit of its performance, while the others aren't. Let's cut to the chase: you can not avoid bottlenecking entirely. Bottleneck is hardware, software and settings dependant. You can not make the perfect match, you can only avoid a bad match.
This is extremely dependant on target resolution and refresh rate. CPU has the same workload at either 1080p or 4k. Meanwhile, a given GPU might give you perfect 144 fps at 1080p, and struggle to reach 75 at 4k. The higher your resolution is, the better your GPU needs to be. Conversely, if you know you are playing at 4k and can push 75 fps at most, CPU might aswell be slightly cheaper, because you ain't ever going to use it to its full extent. With consideration for the target resolution and refresh rate, the rule of thumb is: within a given generation of hardware, same range components will not bottleneck each other (a lot).
Let's say you are playing Cities Skyline at over 100k population. While not much really changed for your GPU, at that point your CPU is probably gasping for watts. Ouch.Let's say you are playing AC:Odyssey. Your GPU is probably working at breakneck pace while your CPU is scheduling her counseling (yup, graphics cards are a she).
The same CPU and the same GPU took turns bottlenecking each other, because the workload for each of them was uneven in each title. This is why if you play only a handful of titles it is a good idea to keep them in mind while you request help or figure out your build.
This is corollary to the previous point. Some specific settings are CPU and/or GPU intensity, and lowering them will make a big difference. This is just here to remind you that you do have some influence over bottleneck, and figuring out a sweet spot where both your CPU and GPU are working close to the same pace is a good idea.
You can crosscheck CPU/GPU bottleneck with this site but always keep in mind this is at best a rough estimate that feeds off algorithms, and you should never ever obsess over bottleneck unless you're breaking the rule of thumb (same generation, same tier, with resolution and refresh rate in mind):
Thermal Solutions
Air or water? The answer is: budget.
Air is cheap and reliable, meaning that in the worst case scenario a fan stops spinning and you replace it for 10-15€. Air has diminishing returns, meaning that throwing money at it is only going to help so much performance wise. When buying an air cooler, you need to check for its height to make sure it fits in your case and doesn't touch any other component (mostly happens with RAMs and rarely with Motherboard heat sinks).
Water is expensive, powerful but potentially unsafe. A bad installation, a loose bit, spilled water on a running motherboard, the recipe for disaster. Let's be clear here: water cooling your CPU is a perfectly valid solution (it's the best!), as long as your budget is right. You can't cheap out on a water cooler, because if it breaks or fails it will potentially kill your whole build. If you are going to buy a modest water cooler, my personal recommendation is to go for air instead: you are going to spend less and have literally the same performance. If you can spare more of your budget for water cooling, go ahead. Water cooling has a higher performance ceiling, which means less diminishing returns, which means that as long as you keep throwing money at it, it will get better.
TL;DR: low into mid range Air cooling wins, mid range to high range Water cooling wins.
This is an example of a benchmark between various air and water coolers:
What do high and low temperatures really mean for your hardware?
Every single piece of hardware is rated for a specific temperature. When it approaches that temperature, the hardware will start thermal throttling until eventually shutting down. You could call throttling underclocking but, at its core, it's a safety measure to prevent irreversible damage to your components. Most pieces of new hardware nowadays also have a "Boost" feature. This feature is effectively a dynamic, factory overclock, meant to push your hardware to its limit while the conditions (read: temperatures) are right. The lower your component temperature, the more it will boost.
Technically speaking, a CPU or a GPU boosting for less while temperatures are high, does not strictly qualify for throttling, but this is merely semantycs. The thing is, that not only your parts are safer, more stable, and will last longer while their temperatures are low. Your parts will also be undeniably faster. A good thermal solution is the safest overclock you can get!
Your entire build is at the mercy of the reliability of a single component: the PSU. There are standards that you should always look up to when buying a PSU, and the following is written with exactly those standards in mind, and with the intent of teaching you about them.
Before picking a PSU, you first have to figure out the peak power draw of your whole build. This figure is meant to represent how much power your system is going to use under a full synthetic load, while every component is stressed beyond what constitutes normal and even stressful non-synthetic operation. Figuring it out can be tricky and each part has its own caveats. The baseline is always CPU + GPU + a realistic static figure meant to represent the rest of the components. Let's see each of them:
While TDP is a decent baseline, it doesn't exactly refers to the peak power draw. TDP means Thermal Design Power, and it refers to the maximum amount of heat generated in Watts, which might or might not coincide with peak power draw. It's good practice to check for power consumption benchmarks of the CPU you are going to buy, although most of those benchmarks are done with the entire system power consumption figures. The real peak power draw of the CPU under extreme circumstances is rather nebulous. A good bet if you just can't find benchmarks is adding 50% to the TDP to account for synthetic benchmarks, and up to 75% to account for both synthetics and overclock (this figure might not hold up in extreme overclocking). This is a very conservative figure that will most likely cover the vast majority of CPUs. Still, some TDPs are hilariously underrated. I can not stress this enough: you must look for benchmarks for your CPU power draw. Even if you stumble upon a system power consumption, you can use that as a baseline if the build is anywhere near your own.
GPUs peak power draw are much more adherent to their rated TDP, but there's a reliable way to check it out. The Power Limit of every GPU is written in their own BIOS, of which we luckily have a database:
Search for Vendor, Brand and Model. Sometimes the entire range of the Power Limit is provided (minimum, stock, and maximum power draw), here's an example: RTX 2060. Sometimes it's just a single entry of Power Limit, and an Adjustment Range somewhere in there for you to figure out the minimum and maximum power draw, here's another example: RX 5600 XT. In this last example, you can read a nondescript "Total" under Power Limit and under Adjustment Range you can read "Power: -50% to +20%". This also gives you an accurate estimate of the extra power draw resulting from a software overclock.
Motherboard, RAMs, storage, fans and fans controllers, RGB, Water Pumps, WiFi, everything draws power, but it might be less than you would expect. Motherboards draw at most 10W, the biggest RAMs barely reach 10W per stick, SSD/M.2/HDD are in the ballpark of 2-5W. The peak power draw of all components of your system, except for CPU and GPU, is at the very most 50W. And that's a conservative figure, meant to account for the impossible case in which you somehow can push every single thing in your system to its limit.
So there it is, add up the power draw from CPU and GPU, then the static figure (50W), and that's your baseline. Well done! Now add about 25% and up to 40% to that figure depending on your anxiety levels, and that's the capacity you need to look for in your PSU. Not convinced? Check for power consumption benchmarks from reputable sources, they list the entire system setup, and then test the power consumption of the whole system at the socket. Even if the entire system is not exactly the same as yours, you can scale things up or down intuitevely researching those components.
Now, let's move onto PSUs.
PSUs have 3 main characteristics:
The rated capacity expressed in Watts refers to the stable point of continuous power delivery. In truth, most PSUs will handle much more power than that, this limit is commonly referred to as Peak or Maximum Power. For example, my PSU is rated at 550W, but benchmarks have shown it's peak power to be over 700W.
Good PSUs are very efficient. 80 Plus has taken it upon themselves to test the efficiency of most of the PSUs ever made. 80 Plus badges range from White (ew) to Titanium (ow). A 80 Plus Bronze is the absolute least I would settle for, but it's not a guarantee that you're buying a good PSU. Gold is a good standard, and most PSU that come with that badge are pretty good.
Quantitative data is not enough, not every PSU is born equal, and they will differ for quality. You can't possibly figure out the quality of a PSU without buying, testing, benching, and taking it apart. Luckily, some people on the internet have already done that for you. Refer to the resources down here to research for a PSU that fits your needs.
Revisioned with the unvaluable help of u/GallantGentleman, the conversation took place here.
A case is not merely cosmetic. A good case will support multiple fan configurations, have great cable management, and most importantly will fit all your components. Once you account for all of that, you can pick a case based on your taste. So here's what to consider before you even begin to care about aesthetics.
A few words or airflow. Positive and negative pressure are a measure of how much air is getting in your case versus how much air is getting out of your case. If you push more air out, it's negative pressure. If you push more air in, it's positive pressure.
Based on my own tests and everything I could find on the internet about it, I firmly believe positive air pressure is better than negative air pressure. Not only dust filters are going to keep your case dust free for longer while you have positive pressure, it is also that much better for GPU temps. Negative air pressure is still valid, I simply think it is inferior.

Now Build It!

Let's help the guy who requested help earlier.
Hello, I own a 1440p/75hz monitor, I want to play AAA titles at ultra and my budget is about 1200€. I prefer AMD, want RGB (unless it's over my budget), and have a mid tower UL7R4 C00L PC case themed red. I also need some advice on water cooling.
He wants to play AAA/ultra at 1440p/75hz. Let's assume he lives in Europe. A 2060 Super or a 2070 super will do him good. Let's check benchmarks: . Well, the 2060s could keep up with that for the time being, but if there's any budget headroom, a 2070 super would do him better.
Now let's pair his GPU to a decent CPU. He needs to push at least 75 fps in the most demanding games. GPUcheck says R5 3600 will not bottleneck the 2070, which is cool, but gpucheck is good at a sight, you still need to check crossbenchmarks if you can find any, in this case you should look for the difference between 3600+2060s and 3600+2070s at 1440p. Here's something:
2070s + 3600 @ 2k*1440p (ultrawide) + 3600 @ 1440p
All fine. 2070s can handle 1440p/75hz like a breeze and will max anything you throw at it for the next 2-3 years.
I'll just put the CPU and GPU in PCPartPicker, put a Tomahawk because it works with literally anything, and grab the best rams for a R5 3600 and the most reliable PSU I can find.
There, within budget.
Does it even matter that there's no case? I mean you can stretch a bit, right? Right?

Revisioned on 21/07/2020. Some formatting fix, expanded Thermal Solutions, revisioned the entire PSU section with the help of u/GallantGentleman. Thank you all for the support, criticism, advices, and the awards! This guide is now over, and hopefully it will help anyone who stumbles upon it.
submitted by Cozzolino92 to buildapc [link] [comments]

Don't be an idiot - A newbies guide for newbies

Whenever I'm about to buy retarded FDs, I think, would an idiot do that? And if they would, I do not do that thing - (Dwight Schrute) and Also Every WSB autist before reloading their broker account with funds for the 69th time after making a YOLO brokerino play thinking that they would not do it again.
I usually post stuff like this when I see retards talking about their plays in the daily threads, plays that no one should be making, EVER.
I posted a comment in the daily thread this morning that received little attention, lot of comments suggesting I reduce my adderral/meth/coke intake and a few DMs asking me to convert it to a post. So here we are.
TLDR; Don't listen to me, I'm an autist who's been trading options for 5 months; Up 177% in March, Down 22% in April - stubbornly bag holding SPY 5/15 220p for a month before finally letting go (I know) - currently down 7% All-time.
For what it's worth, I'm under the illusion that I have a few tips to share and hopefully help some people here because I'm fairly certain most of you dipshits are more retarded than me and don't yet realize that you're playing a losing battle. So let's begin.


1. Closing Positions (Consistent locked gains >>>> bag holding with hopes of a 10 bagger)
  • Every morning there are a huge number of retards asking Up Bigly on $TICKER pre-market *rocket emoji* *penis emoji* , should I sell at open or hold? If you're one of them, I want you to do two things -
  • First, take a look at your All-time performance. For most of you, this should be enough to snap you back to reality and answer the question whether you need to lock these fucking gains for the sake of your portfolio or bag hold in hopes of a 10 bagger with a risk of being wiped out.
  • Second, remind yourself that we are in the middle of a fucking pandemic, with multiple countries possibly heading into recession, and you're trading in this absolute shit show of a market that is waiting for a single bad news to drop dead, and yeah lets not forget about a possible trade war brewing on the side.
  • Personally, I lock in gains when I'm up over 40% on a play, which in this retarded market is not hard to find and look for a re-entry with increased capital.
  • Don't be stubborn like I was and hold bad positions for too long, if you made a 2k investment on a few SPY contracts and it dips beyond 30%, either open a small hedge position or close your positions and take a one day break to reset. 1.4k capital in hand is way better than a full 2k loss.
  • It's your money, you're free to YOLO and diamond hands with dreams of catching a 10 bagger, but for the sake of your peace of mind please don't. I'm fucking sick of looking at all the loss porn from blown up accounts in our subreddit. This is coming from someone who went from +177% to -22% in three weeks. It is absolutely fucking brutal.
2. Gambling YOLO FDs on current market trend (Dumb fucking bulls, this one is for you)
  • I consider buying current market trend FDs (SPY had a +2% day and you're buying more calls betting in the direction of the current market trend) as a YOLO.
  • Buying more calls is a YOLO because you’re purchasing inflated option contracts with a gamble that it climbs further. So be wary before placing a bet because it can be wiped off very quickly if shit hits the fan.
  • So many people don’t know this but VIX(VXX/UVXY) calls are an amazing hedge when you YOLO into SPY calls during rallies like a retard. Surprise intra-day dumps (like the one that happened today and one day past week) will fuck with your peace of mind and force you to panic sell if you don’t have insurance(VIX Calls) - having VIX calls will keep you in the game longer and they’re a fuckton cheaper than SPY contracts.
  • Even worse, if the dump rolls over to the next day and you couldn't close your calls waiting for a EOD pump - your hedge will keep you solvent and might even make bank depending on how it plays out.
3. Buying FDs against current market trend (Fellow bear brothers, this one is for you)
  • As opposed to current market trend FDs, options that reverse the current market trend should never be a YOLO. You should be fucking building a position slowly that is resilient to small market movements (Newbies, this means that if the current market trend is uppies - you should be buying shorts at least 2 weeks or a month out so that you don't get cucked by Greeks if the rally continues for a few days).
  • Let’s say SPY has been rallying for days in a row and weekly SPY puts have become dirt cheap. I know a lot of you autists will fucking YOLO into weekly puts and then bitch about how the market is fucking retarded when the rally continues and your puts end up toast.
  • It’s fair to be agitated but it’s better to be smart and build a monthly put position slowly averaging in depending on how the market is behaving.
  • You can be even smarter and get a few slightly OTM weekly calls (weekly calls that are +5/7$ above current stock price are dirt fucking cheap for SPY) to hedge against the loss that your PUT position will be bleeding in the long run if the rally continues and give you a decent chance to exit with a minimal loss if you feel the play is no longer aimed at a feasible strike price and allow you to roll-over to a better strike price.
4. Maintaining your sanity (saved the best one for last)
  • I was(??) a very emotional trader, the rush when you're trading naked Tesla FDs and making tendies is beyond fucking amazing. But I realized I'm becoming fucking desensitized to profits. When I went up from 150% to 177% just rinse repeating buying SPY puts I barely felt anything (market was in super fucking easy mode in March). My friends went fucking crazy and were really happy for me but I wasn't feeling anything inside, like yeah, whatever.
  • As I dropped down to -22%, I realized both profits and losses can make you desensitized. There were times where I would be thinking about the market all day, watching futures all night like a fucking degenerate and barely sleep 4hours a day except for weekends.
  • If there is one piece of advice that I really wish for you autistic fucks to pick up from this post is this: LEARN TO FUCKING ENJOY THE GAINS YOU MAKE BEFORE YOU FUCKING YOLO IT BACK INTO THE MARKET YOU GREEDY FUCKING BASTARDS.  
  • I was up 8K during yesterdays rally. After closing my calls yesterday, for the first time, I transferred some money back in to my bank account (holy fucking shit, can you imagine that this move also exists?) and it felt sooooooo fucking good. Never thought of doing this when I was up bigly in March.
  • Also purchased a bunch of stuff that I've been wanting to buy for a long time but kept delaying because it didn't make sense to buy expensive materialistic goods during a pandemic but my brain is OK with me gambling on expensive option contracts? Fucking unreal.
  • I'm not saying buying material possessions are a gateway to happiness but I know all you dopamine whores are exactly like me. You fucks would think twice or thrice before buying a new hoodie/sneakers/expensive earphones or whatever shit you're into but will willingly fucking YOLO your gains into a new play in a heartbeat like true autists, before doing something that you enjoy with that money and end up losing it all. It's beyond fucking crazy.
  • In closing, I want to remind you guys that there is no point in being hard on yourself when you're making bad plays and getting too cocky when you're making tendies. Try to learn from bad plays, read about different options strategies, relax and fucking enjoy the tendies once in a while, that's what makes us human after-all.
  • Tyler Durden said it best:
    Man, I see in WSB the autistic and gayest men who've ever lived. I see all this potential, and I see it squandered. God damn it, an entire generation buying YOLO FDs, bag holding dumb plays without locking profits – retards with -99% portfolios. Advertising has us chasing cars and clothes, working jobs we hate so we can buy shit we don't need. We're the middle children of history, man. No purpose or place. We have no Great War. No Great Depression. Our great war is a spiritual war. Our great depression is our lives. We've all been raised on television to believe that one day we'd all be millionaires, and movie gods, and rock stars, but we won't. We're slowly learning that fact. And we're very, very pissed off.
Alright folks, sensei out. Good luck to everyone, lets get them tendies without losing ourselves in the process.
If this post doesn't get removed, mods can I get a flair replacement? I'd like WSB Tyler Durden Wannabe or Dopamine Whore.
submitted by pervsensei11 to wallstreetbets [link] [comments]

2020 Super Bowl Prop Bets Handicapping Tips and Strategy Football Betting Tips Today - 08 July 2020 - Premier League, La Liga, Serie A, Super Lig Predictions Super Bowl 2020 Picks and Predictions from Vegas Free Super Tips - YouTube Super Bowl 2020 Predictions and Prop Bets from Vegas

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